Posts for April, 2010

We spent the morning in Puente Del Este looking for Uruguay souvenirs and taking in the beach, Nina even got a chance to join the throngs and lay on the beach sunbaking. We also got a few more photos of the hand and a few local vacationers. Later in the afternoon we visited the very eccentric house of local artist Carlos Paez Vilaro. A white structure of 9 levels with whimsical spires that cascaded down the side of Puente Ballena.

We spent a quiet day, a bit of shopping, reading our novels, talking to the German couple camped next to us.

A leisurely start meant that we were not under way much before midday. Continuing north and east we traveled along highway 9, the road was inland from the coast and passed through rolling green country side with frequent stands of large eucalyptus trees.

Today we headed inland away from the coast and probably have said goodbye to the Atlantic Ocean until we get back to Colombia to ship our vehicle north.

Melo proved to be a bit of a navigational challenge for us, not only could we not find the campground last night but we had to ask directions again this morning even to find the way north out of town. But after a few missteps we were on our way to Aceagua the border town where we would enter Brazil.

Today was another travel day, so there is not a lot to report.

We arrived in Foz Do Iguacu, the Brazilian town on the Iguazu Falls in the early afternoon. While in the process of navigating our way into the center of the town a local man selling tours at a set of traffic lights offered to take us to a camping ground. We accepted, and off we went following him on his little motorcycle. The campground turned out to be very nice, shady, with all the facilities we require (see below).

This afternoon we visited the Itaipu Dam. This is a joint venture dam and hydro power operation between Brazil and Paraguay. Until recently Itaipu was the largest dam and largest hydro operation in the world. The Chinese Three Dams project has taken over the mantle of the largest dam and hydro installation, but Itaipu is still the largest producer of hydro power.

Like the dam yesterday, the falls trip today was a very well organized tourist operation with well maintained and clean facilities.

We flew to Rio today. What with packing and waiting that took up the entire day.

We spent the morning walking north to Ipanema Beach. As luck would have it, it's Sunday and that's the day locals make the most use of the beaches - apparently. Half the beach front highway is closed so that people can walk, run, ride and just hang out along the beach front. Even though the summer holiday season is over the beach front was crowded. And there was a lot of activity. Many volley ball games, lots of jogging. We were surprised by the number of older (like us) people taking part in strenuous activities. I guess they have to do something to make up for all that beef they seem to eat.

A quiet morning at the hotel, by the pool.

Tonight we went to a combined dinner-show. Dinner was at a (I assume) typical Brazilian barbeque restaurant. A salad bar was provided and waiters came around with big pieces of meat from which they would cut a piece if you asked. Not a recipe for weight control.

There is not much to say about today, a last visit to the pool, a little sun and then into the shuttle bus to the airport and back to Foz Do Inguaçu.

The Lonely Planet guide book warns travelers not to walk over the bridge into Paraguay, but to take a local bus. But late in the morning we found ourselves on the bridge and could not see any signs of danger - unless of course the guide book was referring to the low safety rails.

The bus for our tour to the Argentine side of the falls turned up a little early at 7:50, and off we went. It soon dawned on us that there would be no more passengers today and that this had turned into a private tour. The guide shepherded us through the border into Argentina and not long after 9:00 we were at the parque nacional, had bought our entry tickets and were on the mini-train that took us to the beginning of the 1 km walkway out to the top of Guargantua Diablo, the largest of the falls. We saw this same waterfall from below when we visited the Brazil falls. There was a light fog early in the day so we did not get very good photos of this fall.

The plan today was that the four of us would do some shopping in Paraguay - over that bridge again. Bernie however would be spending some more time at the Brazilian border crossing trying to get his vehicle documents corrected.

We have found the town of Foz do Iguazu and the campground, it's friendly owner Matilda, and the resident pets a very pleasant and relaxing place (except for the Saturday night beer garden next door). Hence the decision to stay one more day and just hang out with the pool, computers, and sun, was an easy one.

This morning we were again at the bridge over the Rio Parana going from Brazil to Paraguay. The crowds of pedestrians carrying large shopping bags of Saturday were gone, replaced by large numbers of trucks choking the bridge and its approaches.

This morning we went off to look at some of the local ruins at the old Jesuit towns. The Jesuits arrived in the province of Paraguay in the early 1600's and set up a series of towns all with a common layout and construction. According to history they were very successful at converting and protecting the local Guarani Indians from Portuguese slavers. Apparently they were generally too successful as in the late 1700's the king of Spain expelled all Jesuits from South America.

The rain stopped threatening and became an actuality early in the night. Thereafter we had bouts of heavy rain on and off all night, it also made for a wet breakfast.

It rained heavily again last night, and to our shock and horror we discovered that we had left our book of maps and the Argentina guide book outside. They were saturated.

While we were having breakfast this morning we were joined by perhaps 50 park workers who mingled around us for a while before filing into the nearby building for a start of day prayer meeting, followed by their own breakfast. Certain proof that, as the guide book said, Paraguay is a catholic country.

We had not traveled more than 50 yards this morning when we were directed to the side of the road at the Policia Nacional checkpoint (last night we drove through it twice without being stopped). I had quite a long conversation with the officer about the spare tire and rack on the front of the Tiger. He was telling me that this was not allowed and was an infraction. I was expecting any moment to be asked to pay a "fine". I just continued with no hablo espanol, no entende. Eventually the boss decided we were too much trouble and waved us on. That proved to set the scene for the day. We must have been waved over at least 10 times during the course of the day. Sometimes we were asked for papers, but as our we are Australians, no spanish and don't understand routine improved the stops got shorter. In fairness to the officers, they probably don't see too many tourists in foreign vehicles out here, and no-one actually asked for money.

Today was a driving not a seeing day - we wanted to make it to Cordoba.

The weather reminds me of Easter camping in Australia. The nights are now cool to cold (not quite a frost), with clear skies and blazing stars. The days are clear and once the sun makes its presence felt they get to be warm, in the low 70° F's. The only downside of autumn are the short days, we are now getting less than 13 hours of light.

The sunny autumn weather continued this morning as we continued west out of Cordoba towards Mendoza. For the first time in weeks (maybe a couple of months) we are back into some mountains. This time a small range west of Cordoba called appropriately Cordillera del Cordoba, which tops out at about 6,500 ft.

Another nice sunny Autumn morning. We got through the usual chores in a relaxed manner, enjoying the sun and warmth.

We were away early this morning in an effort to make it to Mendoza during business hours. Nina has a skin rash and we needed to see a doctor to get something for it.

We spent the day finding our way around the town. It's a bit of a difficult town to navigate, many streets change names a number of times, and on the perimeter of the city a lot of curved roads and roundabouts that are not well signposted.